Be sure the humidity is high in there cage, I usually spray my snakes cage once a day when I start to notice the eyes getting glazed over.  Also be sure to have some sort of object it can rub against like a rock or branch.  You can also give your snake a warm bath and let it soak for about ten minutes.  Occasionally when my python still has small pieces of skin left on it after the shed; I will get a rag soaked in warm water and lightly rub it down the snake until it comes off.  The snake definitely does  not enjoy this usually, but it works pretty good and I also will just use my hands after it gets soaked a little bit.

The frozen mouse must be thawed out until it is at least room temperature.  I prefer to lay mine somewhere sunny for a few hours to get it warmer like a real mouse.  Then I use a pair of common kitchen tongs to entice the snake with the moving mouse.  One thing to keep in mind is to always have another place to feed your python.  Use a cardboard box or you could even use your bathtub if you would like.  This keeps the snake from associating you putting your hand in the cage with being fed, and makes your hand less likely to be confused for a snack. When your ball python is under one year old it’s ok to feed your snake about twice a week.  After the python gets over a year old it is a good idea to cut it back to just once a week.  When your python gets to be an adult and you are feeding it larger prey its fine to feed twice a month depending on your size of prey.

In the wild Ball Pythons naturally eat small mammals, amphibians, lizards, birds, and sometimes other snakes.  It is best to choose a captive bred ball python because most likely its diet will consist of mice or rats, unless you plan on going out and catching small snakes and lizards for it.  Most pet stores carry mice and rats live and frozen cheaper for feeding purposes only.  Most ball pythons will eat live mice, but getting a ball python that will eat a frozen mouse or rat isn’t always as easy.  It is much better to get your python to eat frozen mice though and it is much easier since you do not have to make so many trips to the pet store or keep a little city of mice yourself. 

Another option would to go with the Reptarium.  Which I believe is probably the most economic choice for the space and availability you get with one.  They are made from a Nylon Mesh that allows you to simply place a heat lamp right on the Reptarium directly and it is made to be heat resistance so you do not have to worry about it catching on fire or melting.  They are very light weight and you can buy them very cheap.  One recommendation would be to go ahead and buy a cage liner to go along with it; it makes the cage much easier to clean.  You can search on Ebay or many other online stores and you can usually find this item fairly cheap. With mine I also find Aquarium liner to line the sides, which makes it look much more attractive and it also helps keep in more heat.  I also have a video below to show an example of mine.

The standard aquarium is probably the most attractive type of housing, but it also has many disadvantages as well.  It is most likely going to cost you a big chunk of change to purchase an aquarium the size needed for an adult ball python.  It would need to be at least an eighty gallon aquarium to be a comfortable home for an adult ball python.  Which if you have the money it is definitely a good path to go.  Another disadvantage is when it comes to cleaning your aquarium it is not the easiest task.  I will continue tomorrow by explaining some details about the other types of housing for you r ball python.